

Four-bar linkages are typically complex to create, but this page does an admirable job of simplifying things.Īs you can see in the last image of the above link, the end-view of the handle is "involved" in the diagram, but if you need only ninety degrees of travel, you can stop the arc at that point.Ī four bar linkage in this use causes the lid to move away from the box simultaneously as it rotates around the pivots created during the construction. Within the above link, there is another link to images that show the process involved in creating the correct lengths for the linkages. I found a great video showing how it works in a tool box lid, specifically to clear a carrying handle, but your requirements would not necessarily include that much range of movement. I believe that what you may be seeking is going to be called a four-bar linkage hinge. Keep in mind that the diagram isn't proportional to the actual lid dimensions or wood thickness, so it illustrates the concept but doesn't accurately represent the amount of material that would need to be removed. This is a much smaller amount of "problem" material to remove, and in this location, all it takes is some handheld sandpaper to round off the corner. What is farther from the hinge than that arc is what will rotate into the content area. The tiny arc shown on the diagram at the hinge illustrates the points that would be equidistant from the hinge. As the lid opens, the bottom back inside edge of the lid rotates into the content area. This solution does create a somewhat similar problem at the back of the lid, but it's much easier to solve there. So opening the lid clears anything that might be inside. By the time the edge is at the maximum possible height of the contents, it will be at the original position of the top inside corner.

As you open the lid, that edge will swing out because the diagonal distance is longer than the horizontal distance. The problematic bottom front inside edge of the lid will then be a distance from the hinge pivot that is a diagonal. Here's a much simple approach.įasten the hinge with the pivot centered on the inside height of the lid.
#Toy box hinges professional#
Update: As Matt's comment points out, the above approach would be difficult to make it look professional without the right tools and practice. The actual dimensions of the case would involve much less material removal than implied here. Note that the drawings aren't to scale, they're exaggerated to illustrate the concept. You can use the same test block to guide your cutting gradually rough out the cutaway until nothing hits the block. You can start with a simple wedge, then shape it to the arc. As long as you remove the lid material on the inside face of that line (regardless of the actual shape you cut out), the lid will be guaranteed to clear. It will intersect the bottom edge of the lid at the same place. But if you really want it perfect, calculate a larger concentric arc that passes through the inside top corner of the lid. This approximation should be close enough. Not a lot of material will need to be removed. The wedge can be removed with a Dremel tool, chisel, carving knife, or other suitable tool. The wedge to remove goes from there to the top inside corner. You can use a material like carbon paper so the inside edge of the lid marks the block where it hits.Īdd a small margin for clearance and transfer that dimension to the front bottom edge of the lid, measuring from the inside edge. With the lid open, push the block against the front of the box and close the lid. Use a little geometry, or stick a block of something inside the box or tray that just fits in height when the lid is closed. You can fix it by removing a wedge of material from the inside edge of the lid. But the arc when the lid opens and closes chops off the corner of the contents area, which is the problem. The rectangular white space inside the lid is where contents can fit when the lid is closed. The arc is the path of the inside edge of the front of the lid. The admittedly crude diagram, below, is a cross section of the box and lid (the dot on the right is the hinge).


You don't need to use fancy hinges to fix the problem.
